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As a former birding guide, I’ve photographed birds with everything from my smartphone to point-and-shoots to “serious” (and heavy) camera gear. But when I’d rather be more attentive to birds, while still getting great photos, I head out with my binoculars and bridge camera.

Generally costing between $500 and $1,700, these mid-priced cameras “bridge the gap” between standard point-and-shoots and more advanced and expensive camera bodies with their arsenal of interchangeable lenses. They feature a fixed, versatile lens that gives bird photographers what we need most: zoom—far more than what’s standard on a phone or the 3x, 4x, or 10x zoom of a standard point-and-shoot camera.

These cameras can capture respectable photos of a distant rarity, a perplexing gull, or a nearby songbird, as well as insects and other small wonders in nature. Their images are often sharp enough for impressing on social media, adding to an eBird list, or solving bird identification problems. 

Your shots won’t measure up to the luster and detail of those produced with professional gear. But with practice and patience among birds, bridge camera photos can indeed be worthy of a picture frame. Here’s how to get started.

Choose a Camera

Pick a bridge camera based on your budget and needs. A 24x zoom is adequate, and 60x or so (such as the ) tends to be standard and best for most birders. Even higher zooms (such as the 83x ) can be nice, but come with tradeoffs: greater weight, bulk, and cost.

Behind the lens, all worthy bridge cameras should include a suite of standard essential features, including a viewfinder and manual controls similar to those on more advanced gear. One notable option to consider is sensor size. A few models feature a “1-inch” sensor, such as the acclaimed 25x .  These larger sensors produce better images than sibling cameras, especially in poor light, but you’ll pay more for the camera.

Select the Best Settings

These super-zooms can indeed capture decent images in their AUTO modes. But basic photography knowledge on your part will help you use the camera to its full potential. You’ll also spend less time fiddling with buttons, dials, and menus. So, at the very least:

•       Shoot in burst mode, which allows you to capture lots of photos as you hold down the shutter. The pros shoot this way. Roughly one in 10 of our shots are keepers (so don’t feel too bad about your own misses).

•       Learn the essentials of shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. Because the small sensors on these cameras need light to make their best photos, shoot in aperture priority with the lens as wide-open as possible.

•       Set the camera to measure light (and therefore “decide” how to expose the image) on the bird itself and less so on its surroundings. In camera parlance, that’s often called “spot” or  “center-weighted” metering.

Set up Your Shot

Your most crucial ally is light. Sunlight low and at your back is generally best for nature photography—and especially so with a bridge camera owing to its smaller sensor and fixed lens. Your best photos, even suitable for framing, will most likely be of relatively still birds in the open and bathed in low, angled sunlight. But with practice and good light, you can also get great flight photographs.

On cloudy days and with backlit birds, bridge cameras will certainly get the photo, but don’t expect it to make any magazine covers. These cameras simply aren’t in the same league as higher-end consumer or professional gear—so set your expectations accordingly.

Go Beyond Birds

Bridge cameras also work remarkably well for up-close macro photography. With its lens only inches from a plant, insect, or other tiny subject, the camera captures magnificent detail. But using the zoom is another option for insect photographers. No need to approach the butterfly or dragonfly for that in-tight macro photo (and potentially scare it off). Instead, stand back, zoom, and get your shot.