I鈥檓 going to start with the bad stuff, so we can push through and get to the good stuff. Pelagic birding鈥攖aking a boat way out into the ocean to find birds that can only be seen there鈥攃an be a real ordeal.
a) You have to get up very early in the morning. Likely even earlier than regular birding *screams silently*.
b) There鈥檚 a chance you鈥檒l get seasick.
c) You could be stuck on a boat from sunup to sundown. If that's the case, you鈥檙e going to get burned. Or more likely frozen (trips run year-round).
Okay, that鈥檚 all of it. Just six sentences worth of difficulties! But those six sentences鈥攅specially the one about possibly getting seasick鈥攈ave kept lots of birders away from exciting and unique birding experiences.
Now here are 57 sentences about why you should go pelagic birding. You get to see birds that you can鈥檛 see anywhere else. You get to check out other cool stuff like whales and sharks and flying fish and sea turtles. There鈥檚 a higher-than-typical chance that you鈥檒l find a very rare bird. You feel like you鈥檙e a pirate, or like you鈥檙e in Treasure Island. You get to hang out with really good birders. You鈥檙e never stuck in traffic. You get to eat ginger snaps.
For me, it鈥檚 the rare birds that clinch it. I鈥檝e taken pelagic trips off Maine, Delaware, North Carolina, Louisiana, California, and Alaska, and have seen birds that elicit envious groans from even the most seasoned birders. On my first pelagic trip, near Maryland in 2006, someone pointed out a Cape Verde Shearwater鈥攎aybe the second-ever U.S. sighting. We hoisted a Bermuda flag after spotting an ultra-rare Bermuda Petrel last year off Cape Hatteras.
It鈥檚 not just the rare ones either; all of the birds you see on the high seas are cool. There are lots of species that have evolved to spend nearly their entire lives on the open ocean, making landfall only to breed on remote island crags. These birds aren鈥檛 like their landlubber cousins: They鈥檙e built to fly long distances over endless miles of waves. I鈥檒l never forget the sight of a Black-footed Albatross whizzing in and out of the Pacific fog, dwarfing the gulls and shearwaters in the boat鈥檚 wake.
You鈥檝e probably read about how albatross wings are perfectly tailored to soaring over the water with little effort, but they aren鈥檛 the only birds that can do that. Slightly smaller avians called shearwaters and petrels are commonly encountered offshore (depending where you are); with their elegant swooping and gliding, they鈥檙e just as dazzling as albatrosses. There are even adorable birds to be found offshore, like the storm-petrels, which sometimes feed by dancing on the .
Albatross, shearwaters, petrels, storm-petrels鈥攁nd I haven鈥檛 even mentioned the predatory jaegers and skuas, or cold-water divers like puffins, razorbills, and other alcids. The point is, it鈥檚 worth getting on a boat to see a ton of cool birds. Let me tell you how to do it.
Everyone鈥檚 worried about seasickness. I鈥檓 with you. I鈥檝e been seasick on a pelagic trip before (though only once), and it鈥檚 really not fun. But it鈥檚 also avoidable. The first thing you need to know is that the bigger the boat, the less chance you have of getting seasick. Larger ships feel like they鈥檙e barely moving鈥攅ven when they鈥檙e going a trillion knots. That鈥檚 why people on cruise ships aren鈥檛 constantly barfing over the railings.
Luckily, there are monster boats that will get you out to sea for a day only: whale watches. A whale watch is the perfect way to begin pelagic birding because a) the boats are big, b) lots of coastal cities have regularly scheduled trips, and c) you get to see some dang whales! When I lived in Portland, Maine, I would jump on the again and again each summer because it was cheap and always gave me a shot at seeing some great birds (Maine鈥檚 first-ever Yellow-billed Loon was seen from that boat, if I鈥檓 not mistaken.)
There are some downsides to a whale watch cruise, though. For one, the goal of the boat isn鈥檛 to find birds, so you鈥檙e pretty much on your own for spotting and identifying species. Second, the boats are crowded with looky-loo tourists who will crowd the decks and generally do annoying tourist stuff. If you really want a birding experience, you have to upgrade to a birding-specific pelagic.
That鈥檚 where you have to do your research, because there are only a handful of companies that run regular pelagic trips. (The American Birding Association puts out a each year.) is the most famous outfitter on the Pacific side (Anjelica Huston played a thinly veiled homage to real-life trip leader Debi Shearwater in the 2011 film The Big Year, except her name was Annie Auklet). On the Atlantic, a trip to the Gulf Stream with out of Cape Hatteras is a true adventure. They turn up as much as anyone in the United States. I鈥檝e also had great luck with , which runs out of Delaware, Maryland, New York, and New Jersey. Many local 爆料公社 chapters will run once-a-year pelagics out of their regions, so check your local Internet listings for that info.
Trips generally run a couple hundred bucks, depending on the time of year and how long the boat plans to be out. The really hardcore ones run multiple days, ensuring plenty of time over weird undersea features鈥攖he Gulf Stream or seamounts or continental shelves鈥攖hat draw good birds. They鈥檙e also pretty low-frills, because birds are the one and only priority. (Actually, there isn't a single frill.) Here鈥檚 another tip: Bring your binoculars and a camera, but don鈥檛 bring a scope. Even in calm seas there will be too much movement.
And speaking of movement, seasickness is slightly more of a concern on some of these smaller boats鈥攂ut there are all kinds of medical and folkloric measures on how to avoid it. My advice: Do whatever you need to do. If it happens anyway, it鈥檒l make for a funny story. Or just file it under 鈥渨orst hangover ever.鈥 In addition to the incredible birds you can see on a pelagic trip, part of the fun is that you can tell all your non-birding friends what a crazy person you are for jumping on a small boat and wandering out into the middle of the ocean. Pelagic trips are a unique part of the adventure of birding, and a little barf just makes it all the more memorable.