It’s Past Time for Bird-Friendly Wine

A labeling program could help scientists and grape growers make vineyards better for wildlife, but for now it's sitting on the shelf.

Wouldn't it be great if you could raise a glass of cabernet after a day of birding and know your libation's producers care about birds as well as grapes? 

We already have some  that trace bird-friendliness to the source. The from the Smithsonian Institute鈥檚 Migratory Bird Center, for example, ensures that your morning pick-me-up supports growers whose farms promote biodiversity good for birds and other wildlife. If you see 爆料公社鈥檚 seal on or grass-fed beef, you can rest assured it comes from a sugarbush or grassland managed to benefit birds. And, while it's not a certification program per se, 爆料公社 partners with brewers in the , , and watersheds to promote water conservation.

But there isn鈥檛 a rigorous standard for wine鈥攏ot yet, anyway.

It鈥檚 too bad, because bird-friendly adaptations in agriculture couldn鈥檛 come at a more critical time. In North America alone, it's estimated that we have lost more than a quarter of our bird population in the last 50 years due to human activity. Conventional grape growing can involve pesticides, synthetic fertilizers, excessive irrigation, and land clearing. Oak savannas of the West Coast, such as in California鈥檚 wine country, are among the in the country, according to the American Bird Conservancy. The Oak Titmouse in particular has been a casualty of habitat loss there.

A few years ago, bird-loving oenophiles were this close to a green certification. In 2007, after completing graduate research on bird-friendly coffee in Mexico, Julie Jedlicka, a biologist now with Missouri Western State University, arrived in the rolling oak hills of California鈥檚 wine country itching to apply what she鈥檇 learned to a new crop. If it could be done for coffee, why not grapes? She spent the next seven years studying how vineyard-management practices affected bird abundance, working to lay the foundation of a bird-friendly wine program.

Jedlicka's research was beginning to point toward conservation strategies that were good both for birds and growers. One study showed, for example, that adding nest boxes to vineyards the abundance of insect-eating avian species鈥擶estern Bluebird density alone increased tenfold where boxes were added鈥攚hich help control outbreaks of plant-damaging pests. She also wanted to learn more about the role of native habitat around a vineyard, and better understand overall how bird populations respond to changes in land management.

But funding to finish the research proved elusive, and in 2015 Jedlicka left California for Missouri to become an assistant professor. Still, the groundwork she built remains. 鈥淚 have no doubt we could produce the wine label if we were able to find funding for the research,鈥 Jedlicka says.

Just because the bird-friendly label hasn鈥檛 yet materialized doesn鈥檛 mean that wine producers aren鈥檛 acting on their own. In Oregon鈥檚 Willamette Valley, Tad Seestedt of says he welcomes the idea of a bird-friendly label. 鈥淵ou might even go further,鈥 he says. 鈥淏ird, bee, and bug friendly!鈥 Seestedt, who also produces grappa, whiskey, and other spirits, started following organic practices on his 40 acres more than two decades ago. 鈥淲e think of our plantings as part of an ecosystem,鈥 he says.

At , Washington state鈥檚 first organic and biodynamic certified winery, winemaker Paul Beveridge lures visitors to the vineyard with birding, hiking, and wildlife viewing. The farmhouse tasting room even keeps a bird list. 鈥淥f our 80 acres, only 15 are in production,鈥 he says. 鈥淭he rest is sagebrush steppe, with quail and Great Horned Owls. Cowiche Canyon next to us has nesting swallows, and a Golden Eagle every summer. It鈥檚 a bird paradise.鈥

Elsewhere in wine country, grape growers are ditching rodenticides, which can kill birds of prey. Instead, to control root-gnawing gophers, they're putting up nest boxes to attract Barn Owls鈥攏ature's rodent-devourers.

While there isn鈥檛 yet a bird-specific certification for growers like Beveridge and Seestedt, environmentally minded wine lovers aren鈥檛 on their own. The California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance, for example, certifies sustainable wineries and vineyards that conserve water, protect wildlife habitat, and practice responsible pest management, among other measures. The number of vineyards it certifies last year to roughly 1,400. Other sustainability programs certify wines in , the , and , New York. The certification, meanwhile, covers Northwest wine growers managing their grape-growing to protect and restore streams鈥攑ractices that also benefit birds living nearby.

Truth is, there are lots of environmental labels on wines these days, and it might be hard to keep them all straight. That鈥檚 why experts recommend talking with your local wine merchant, who should know how the wines they sell were grown. If you live in wine country, try getting to know a grower who can show you what bird-conservation practices they鈥檝e implemented. However you approach your wine buying, before raising a glass, use the opportunity to also raise your voice for birds.